One&Only Gorilla’s Nest
"Set the scene.Tiny Rwanda has gone unapologetically upmarket, with a raft of top-notch lodges and camps making it possible to do a circuit of game driving at Akagera National Park, chimpanzee tracking at Nyungwe Forest, and mountain-gorilla viewing at Volcanoes National Park, on the border with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Here, Gorilla’s Nest is the last of a trio of lodges in the foothills of the country’s Virunga Mountains where the primatologist Dian Fossey worked—the much smaller Bisate from Wilderness Safaris and Kwitonda from Singita are nearby. What’s the backstory?Known for its beach hotels, One&Only has been building a small portfolio of nature retreats. Gorilla’s Nest is a five-hour drive or short helicopter trip from One&Only’s Nyungwe House, where chimpanzee trekking is the main draw. Guests can now not only tick off both of the great apes with a two-stop trip, but also have plenty of other things to do in between—perhaps mountain biking and archery, or, for something more chilled out, basket weaving and coffee tasting. What can we expect in our room?The stilted wooden lodges incorporate local volcanic stone in the decor, which mixes a palette of browns with traditional black and white Rwandan imigongo prints (geometric patterns originally created from cow dung). Designed to draw the outside in, some rooms have bath tubs or showers on their wooden decks; others have baths looking onto the greenery that’s so close it almost reaches out to tickle your face. There’s a cosy gas fire too. How about the food and drink?While the food in all Rwanda’s lodges is impressive, One&Only’s is consistently a cut above the rest. Carrot soup, fresh salad, and chicken may not sound that special, but it’s so fresh it zings with flavor. If you don’t like what’s on the menu, they’ll cook you something different. What’s the crowd like?It’s all walking boots and rain jackets here. The chatter in the restaurant and the bar is almost wholly gorilla-related: whose foot was stood on by a silverback gorilla; who had to jump out of the way of play-fighting adolescents, and who got the muddiest being helped up the slope by a porter. Anything to say about the service?After an early start and a long trek, dirty boots are eased off feet and swapped for soft slippers. They emerge later in your room, mud-free and gleaming, along with cleaned rain garments. Staff pride themselves on serving from the heart—and it shows. What’s the neighborhood scene like?There are primates aplenty in the area, but further down the slopes are traditional Rwandan villages, where locals farm the volcanic-rich soil. Little children wave and call out, while their parents work the soil with hoes and the smell of eucalyptus floats across the air. A steep, sweaty hike leads to Dian Fossey’s tomb and the nearby gorilla cemetery at her Karisoke Research Camp. Anything else to add?Children of 10 and above can stay in the hotel but they must be 15 to go gorilla trekking or 12 to see the golden monkeys. Anything you’d change?If you don’t like being in the spotlight, the greeting on arrival, when staff turn out to play drums and sing as guests draw up. Is it worth it?It’s impossible really to put a value on a gorilla-viewing experience; Gorilla’s Nest offers that with all the five-star trimmings, including a swimming pool and a rather lovely spa." - Jane Knight
