"In a tiny lot by the airport, several giant smokers welded from old propane tanks emit the smells of woodsmoke. Even in the summer heat, a line of an hour-plus stretches, unless you’ve arrived at least 20 minutes before the 11:00 a.m. opening time. Laidback music plays, some people wait at picnic tables, watching pit masters (who have been on the clock since not long after midnight) check on papered brisket—all signs scream that you’ve entered an intense temple of barbecue. Scott Holmes serves barbecue in the Central Texas style: beef-centric, meat seasoned minimally and plated without sauce. If you opt for brisket, be sure to request fatty slices, which dissolve in your mouth. The real secret, though, is that there are two menu items superior to even Holmes’ 10/10 brisket. First, pastrami, a Thursday special with a cult local following. Second, a Flinstonian beef short rib offered most Fridays and Saturdays. To round out your tray with other meats and taste what else Holmes can do, consider a juicy smoked turkey breast, flavor-brimming sausage made from meat trimmings, and jalapeno cheddar grits." - Lizbeth Scordo, Chris Malloy
