Sbanco — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived. The entryway is trimmed by shiny brewing equipment at this pizzeria-trattoria-brewpub in Rome's Appio-Latino district. The polished metal accents continue along the bar and into the main dining room, where a wood-burning oven bakes thick-rimmed pies. Tables are close together, but the high ceilings eliminate any sense of claustrophobia. What was the crowd like? Sbanco attracts residents from the large district around it, as well as craft beer drinkers from all over town. Even as the brews flow, diners never get out of hand—though the conversation can definitely reach a healthy volume. What should we be drinking? Sbanco can mix basic cocktails, but the main attraction here is mostly Italian) draught beer from Vento Forte, Birrificio Del Ducato, Extraomnes, and others. After dinner, choose from plenty of digestivi. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Like its sister pizzeria Sforno, the menu is a mix of classic and creative pizzas. And why pick favorites? You'd be wise to order a combination of the two so you can taste both interpretations. The Cacio e Pepe pie is a must; its thick-crusted base is topped with Pecorino Romano and coarsely ground black pepper. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? On busy nights, the pizza oven can get slammed with orders; don't expect TLC, but know that service will be as efficient as possible. To stave off hunger, order some fried starters. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Sbanco is a fun place to get together with friends—order a ton of fritti (assorted fried starters) and pizzas and share. Bear in mind that this place, like all pizzerias serving round pies, expects you to order one pizza per person." - Katie Parla