Gran Hotel Mas d'en Bruno

Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno

"Why book? You won’t find a more sophisticated base for exploring Priorat, Spain. This 18th-century farmhouse has been beautifully modernized with design, gastronomy, wellness and, yes, wine, at the forefront. Still, a sense of history runs deep. Menus draw inspiration from beloved regional recipes and local ingredients, the spa is set inside the old wine press room, and nearby attractions include a restored Carthusian monastery and the remains of a ninth-century Arab castle. Set the scene Priorat is renowned for its robust reds, but it’s only recently that the wine region—which comprises nine villages and 114 wineries—has made a name for itself as a well-rounded destination. The arrival of Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno anchors Priorat’s newfound status. The property is just as popular among oenophiles as it is with design lovers, wellness seekers, and adventurers who come to cycle zig-zagging mountain trails and hike through Serra de Montsant Natural Park (a.k.a the Grand Canyon of Spain). On hot summer days, the property draws a mix of well-heeled Barcelonians who trade the city’s tourist-jammed beaches for Priorat’s cool mountain breezes. Brush up on your Catalan to mingle with fellow guests around the 80-foot outdoor infinity pool. The backstory In 2019, the Mallorca-based developer and hotelier David Stein visited Priorat for the first time. He fell in love with the region’s deep roots and dramatic mountain landscapes. When he stumbled upon the historic Bruno estate, he knew he had found the latest jewel in his hospitality group, which also includes Mallorca’s newly reborn Gran Hotel Son Net and Château Eza on the Côte d’Azur. Fanning outward from miles of grape vines, Mas d’en Bruno dates to 1797 and was gifted to the Bruno family by the Carhusian monks, who introduced winemaking to the region in the 12th century. The Stein Group called on Barcelona’s Astet Studio to breathe new life into the stone-walled Masía, dividing 24 suites between the original manor and the Atelier annex. In a nod to the region’s curving mountain roads and vineyard scenery, the interiors embrace circular forms and earthy tones of burgundy and cork along with original beamed ceilings and wooden doors. Vivid cubist-style artwork and eye-catching installations, including a streaming stairwell light display with multi-colored blown glass “grapes,” add visual interest. The rooms This is wine country at its most sumptuous. All 24 suites have double-sided fireplaces, vineyard views, beamed ceilings, red marble baths, and modular-inspired furniture that extends the hotel’s obsession with curved, sinuous forms. Several rooms have outdoor patios, while others have deep-soaking tubs looking out over the mountainous scenery, but for total immersion in place, stay inside the Atelier annex, which fronts endless miles of vines owned by the Clos de L’Obac winery. Resist the urge to go and steal a grape and uncork a bottle from the excellent mini bar, which features wines from Clos de L’Obac along with other well-known producers like Bodegas Mas Alta along with herbal infusions from Tarragona-based Chas & Chas Tea Co. Rates start at $450 per night. Food and drink At the helm of the property’s superb all-day restaurant is 28-year-old culinary star Josep Queralt, who trained at some of Catalonia’s finest Michelin-starred restaurants, including Girona’s El Celler de Can Roca and Can Bosch in Cambril. By day, Queralt dishes crowd-pleasing Mediterranean fare like seafood paella with saffron emulsion or roasted sea bass with oysters and a white vermouth sauce along with time-honored regional specialties such as truita amb suc (gravy omelet with codfish). But you’ll want to leave room for dinner: the Vinum tasting menu is an ambitious deep-dive into the ingredients and culinary traditions of the region. Service starts with a creative spin on Spain’s best-known products, with a tomato water–infused vermouth paired with a green olive crisp. Other highlights include almadraba tuna with fennel textures and Tarragona red prawns with crunchy sea leaves. A sommelier is on hand to guide your tasting, but for serious swishing, head to the vaulted wine bar to sip your way through the 26-page wine menu, which spotlights local and international producers alike. The spa The grotto-like spa was dug out of the estate’s historic winery room; an original grape press and other archaeological features are still intact. It’s a serene setting for swimming laps in the pool and unwinding in the hammam and steam room. Treatments incorporate products from Barcelona’s Natura Bissé, along with wild-harvested tinctures, salves, and creams from Priorat’s own Herbarium Scala Dei (check out their apothecary in the neighboring town of Escaladei). For wellness en plein air, ask the concierge about a private yoga class on the outdoor platform overlooking the vines. The neighborhood/area The best of Priorat is within striking distance. All of the region’s wineries are on your doorstep, and the hotel can set up tours and masterclasses with all 114 producers. Borrow an E-bike and motor up pine-covered hills to the 12th-century Carthusian monastery of Scala Dei, now a museum complex with cloisters, gardens, and churches. Or head to the medieval village of Siurana, home to a Romanesque temple, the remains of a 9th-century, and heart-stopping views of the Prades mountains and the Siurana reservoir. Outdoor adventurers will want to lace up their hiking boots and conquer the trails of the Serra de Montsant Natural Park, while lovers of modernismo should venture to Gaudí’s hometown of Reus to dive into the architect’s genius at the immersive Gaudí Center. The hotel has a car for guest’s to rent, but be sure to ask in advance—it books up fast. The service There were a few minor kinks during my stay, but overall, the staff was cheerful, professional, and eager to organize activities like olive oil tastings and stargazing. For families Guests of all ages are welcome, but the vibe is more adults-only, and geared toward couples. Anything left to mention? For guests arriving by train, the hotel can organize transfers (for an additional cost) from the town of Reus, a 45-minute drive away. But unless you’re planning on spending your entire vacation poolside or at the spa, rent a set of wheels; there’s so much to discover in Priorat, and the best way to motor around is via car." - Siobhan Reid