"Classified as a modern monument, this mansion was designed in 1881 by Ernst Ziller, the German architect whose eclectic neoclassicism shaped Greece’s new 19th-century capital. Hotelier Grigoris Tolkas spent three years transforming the neglected beauty into an intimate hotel, undeterred by strict building restrictions, maddening bureaucracy and spiralling costs. Restoration specialists from the Ministry of Culture painted the delicate acanthus flowers on the ceilings and trompe l’oeil stairwell, which leads to nine subtly different rooms and suites. There are sepia-toned limewash walls, brass lamps beside bespoke wooden beds and a smattering of contemporary Scandinavian furniture to keep things from sliding into retro pastiche. Modern bathrooms are concealed in mirrored boxes, a neat trick that makes the lofty rooms seem even bigger. Some suites have marble balconies overlooking the domed church of Agios Dimitrios, the pavement scene at fashionable Linou Soumpasis restaurant and the Parthenon hovering above the rooftops. A locally sourced breakfast is the only meal served in the subdued living and dining room that occupies the whole ground floor. The complimentary sauna and steam room in the basement is a lovely perk. Service is hyper-personal, from the morning crew remembering your coffee order to behind-the-scenes tours tailored to your interests, whether you’re into art, architecture or eating your way around Athens. This is a charming hideout in the heart of the city, where you can peel back layers of the past while checking the frenetic pulse of the present. From about $305. —Rachel Howard" - CNT Editors