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"A love letter to Portugal’s beloved pork, this nose-to-tail kitchen turns sustainability into comfort and fun in a warm, bottle-lined room. I let the passionate chefs choose: a couvert with lard, outrageously fresh and crisp “crackling,” meaty croquettes with tangy mustard, a moreish pork feet and bean stew, and, for the bold, hearts and testicles—surprising, memorable, and delicious. It’s worth the taxi to Campo do Orique; lean on the staff’s expertise and leave any prejudices at the door." - Abigail Malbon