Lark — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived. Stocked with wine bottles and other sundries, floor-to-ceiling white pantry shelves divide the kitchen and dining room in John Sundstrom's twinkling restaurant on Capitol Hill , a clever nod to this upscale restaurant's rustic origins in a tiny storefront a few blocks away. What was the crowd like? In a part of town that caters to twenty-somethings seeking pizza slices and plant-based ice cream, Lark attracts a more mature clientele. Couples in shift dresses and smartly tailored suit jackets take advantage of an evening away from the kids, families celebrate graduations or grandma's birthday, and everywhere you'll find chef John Sundstrom's loyal fans. What should we be drinking? Old-world wines sit on the food-friendly list alongside smart California and Pacific Northwest selections, but the bar program here excels as well. Specialty drinks like Not Just Yet, with orange-infused tequila, basil leaf, cardamom bitters, and black salt‚ display culinary know-how and verve, and you can always count on Lark's mix masters to deliver a mean Martini. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Sundstrom shows off his love of offal and game meats with crispy pork trotters and a main featuring venison loin, but with plenty of lighter options or as part of a four-course seasonal tasting menu. Don't miss a gorgeously dressed hamachi crudo with fennel, preserved lemon, and green olive, or bright pink wild salmon presented with orange orbs of Ikura roe. How did the front-of-house folks treat you? In an industry notorious for turnover, guests greet Lark's bartenders and servers by name. Longtime staff and newcomers alike seem to know the menu in and out, and guide diners confidently through their meals. Who should we bring with us? The ultimate night-away-from-the-kids restaurant, Lark's also the spot to impress your boss, toast an anniversary, or just treat yourself to a solo burger‚ one of the best in town‚ at the bar." - Jessica Voelker