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"I step up a couple of weathered wooden stairs into the buzzy warmth of this neighborhood barbecue spot and find a polished concrete bar and a small dining room where Chef Wilson Rothschild serves house-smoked meats and Southwest–Mex–Caribbean dishes: deviled eggs with house-smoked scallops, green olives, and chile oil; smoked bluefish tostadas; guajillo-glazed smoked pork ribs; brisket burnt ends with coffee-agave barbecue sauce; haddock cakes with spicy aioli; and sides like slow-cooked rosado beans with pork belly or honey-buttered, jalapeño cornbread—even breakfast tacos piled with black beans, crispy potatoes, scrambled eggs, avocado, and house-made spicy salsa roja." - Alexandra Hall
