"Look right. What's up with that weirdly beautiful wallpaper? Oh, wait, it's a collection of 1000 tiny shark jaws, carefully arranged in rows. Welcome to Reckless, an odd little surf shack where the cocktails flow freely and the flavor-packed plates take inspiration from Vietnam , Cambodia, China, and Thailand . Chef Kenny Lee isn't shy with the fish sauce. It permeates the spicy papaya salad, lends sour depth to ribeye wrapped in betel leaves, and makes a tasty dip for fresh rolls, chubby with vermicelli noodles and slices of caramelized pork. But Lee's best dish, the Ma La Braised Beef Cheek Noodle, is pure Sichuan, showcasing that cuisine's signature contrast of searing heat and comforting textures." - Naomi Tomky, Stefan Milne, Jessica Voelker