Amanemu
"Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe?Black cedar houses stretch across a hill where pearl rafts float on glassy Ago Bay. What's the backstory?Amanemu doesn’t hit you over the head with architectural symmetry or rarefied landscapes like other Amans. To the uninitiated junkie, it might even cross the line from understated to boring. But a trained eye will appreciate the 24 steep-roofed cedar villas—designed by Kerry Hill—whose humble construction pays homage to Ise Jingū, Japan’s preeminent Shinto shrine and the mother lode of architectural understatement. Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book?My room was spacious and cozy, with a veranda and loads of blonde wood, plus beautiful old trees and shrub. I would not rush back to this Aman. Drinking and dining—what are we looking at?Excellent sukiyaki at the restaurant: The seafood in the area is often caught by ama fisherwomen, noted for its quality. This is Japan's lobster country; ebi is prized. Breakfast is a lavish Japanese breakfast. And the service?Service was mixed, as it was newly opened when I visited. What type of travelers will you find here?Arty bespectacled Japanese, French, and American Aman junkies. They were all scrutinizing the property's design, dishing, bragging, and comparing notes about other Aman stays, yet it felt authentic, not weird or inconsiderate. The spa was polarizing, because it's not a traditional onsen, and the water was on the cool side. The separate aquatic watsu pool was nice. What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene?It's very secluded from everything and you need a taxi to get off property. It does fit in, because it's so discreet, but it was not my favorite property in the area because it lacked authenticity and was slightly boring for an Aman. Is there anything you'd change?The onsen. Too big and grand. I would also add more overt Japanese elements. I love subtle but it's too subtle. Service could use some warmth. Any other hotel features worth noting?Ocean access, boats, gym, library. Be sure to spend some time on the water, whether an Aman boat or otherwise. The views of Mie prefecture are gorgeous. This area also hosted the G7 so it has a dignitary past. And most people come to this part of Japan to see Ise Jingu shrine, which is mecca for Shintoists. Don't miss it and see it before you stay at Amanemu to heighten your understanding of understated Shinto architecture. Bottom line: Worth it? Why?For $1,000 a night, no way. It's not Japanese or Aman enough. Since rooms were so big, I think it might be worth it as a friend or small group of four to stay. Not sure if Amanemu allows that, but this property left me cold." - Adam H. Graham
