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"I found I Cavallini to be the must-get reservation in Williamsburg: run by the team behind The Four Horsemen and sitting right across the street from it, the room is understated—dusky light, dark paint, black-and-white tile and a long bar—but the portions are bigger and the cooking is squarely Italian. The wine list is exclusively Italian bottles, and my waiter’s selections pushed me to order across the menu: airy fried dough piled with culatello, a fennel salad with stone fruit and pecorino, buoyant trofie in a simple pesto elevated by Belper Knolle, and a bluefin belly on herby gremolata with tiny risina beans. It’s a tricky table to get, so treat a visit like an occasion and order broadly." - Charlie Hobbs