Superiority Burger

Restaurant • East Village

Chilaquiles are a perfect food — if I weren’t allowed to eat anything else before noon ever again, I’d still be happy. At least for a while. So while I didn’t go to Superiority Burger in search of this dish, how could I say no? The chilaquiles ($15) here are the work of cook Akbal Ortega, who spends most of his time making bulk batches of soups, stews, and braises. The chips are still firm and crispy, simmered in a tart and just oh-so-spicy salsa verde with a fried egg plopped on top. —Chris Crowley