Quique Crudo

“The chopped tenderloin is seasoned with by-the-book bistro ingredients — shallots, capers, cornichons, parsley, and chives minced and tossed in a mustardy aioli — but the twist comes from the heavy hand with which that dressing is applied to the steak. It’s nearly dip, which is fitting since it comes heaped on what is essentially a very large corn chip that turns out to be the perfect delivery system for a burger-size puck of cool beef.”