"Alex Stupak, after months of pandemic-related delays, finally opened Empellon Taqueria on Waterline Square, a little nook on the Upper West Side adjacent the Hudson. I’m still mulling over how this evolving empire fits into the city’s thriving modern Mexican scene; the Midtown Empellon continues to draw in diners with trompe l’oeil avocados and other avant-garde sweets, while the Taqueria concept mixes both contemporary and traditional influences. But less academically, I had a very nice meal at this new space not too long ago. I liked the coarse carrot chorizo tacos, but I really enjoyed the tender lamb barbacoa tacos for their straightforwardness. They tasted precisely how slow-cooked and shredded lamb should taste — funky and sweet — while the ample jus didn’t sog up the sturdy corn tortillas. A pair of mezcal margaritas helped quell the mild heat. Perhaps I’ll test drive the crunchy bean flautas on a return visit. 645 West 59th Street at Freedom Place South, Upper West Side — Ryan Sutton, chief critic" - Eater Staff
