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"I read an extensive New York Times backstory on the French dip at Houston's (also served at South Beverly Grill) that captures the sandwich’s appeal: the beef slices “aren’t squashed, but cling to each other so that when you dip the sandwich in a ramekin of light, slightly wine-dazed jus, the sandwich holds,” and it “saturates neatly, going from crisp to soggy at exactly the pace you set.”" - Matthew Kang