Divino Brentwood Remains One of LA’s Most Charming Italian Restaurants | Eater LA
"Tucked away on an unassuming corner of Brentwood Village, this Italian osteria—opened by Goran Milic in 1996—evokes the timeless charm of Florence with simple decor, an open view of the kitchen, wood paneling, stacked wine bottles, and white tablecloths. Milic, originally from Montenegro, bounced around Europe as a 17-year-old on the PVK Jadran professional water polo club, began in restaurants washing dishes at Michelle’s in London in 1985, obtained a work visa to Los Angeles in 1987, moonlighted as a server at Club 22, and later worked under chef Giorgio Baldi at Ristorante Lido, where he met backer Thomas Tatum; about 12 years in he repaid Tatum’s investment in full and Tatum remains a regular. To refine the menu and techniques he made regular trips to Tuscany, learned from mentors including Los Angeles restaurateur Piero Selvaggio (who owned Valentino), attended Vinitaly, and spent much time at neighborhood institutions in Florence—Caffè Italiano and Vivoli—crediting Silvana Vivoli, who "was extremely important for the restaurant and its philosophy," and who, as Milic says, "Whenever I would visit Italy, she would arrange for me to go into various restaurants to observe, learn, and meet with the Italian chefs. This is how I developed my cooking skills." Reflecting on the work required to stay competitive, he asks, “How much do you really want it? How much do you really want to sacrifice? It’s not easy. But with passion, love, enthusiasm, it’s very possible.” The menu is rooted in both Tuscan influences and the flavors of the Adriatic coast. Signature preparations include rigatoni al ragú—traditional pasta mixed with finely sliced chicken coated in a thick tomato sauce and savory pureed vegetables—and risotto all’ortolana that uses fresh vegetables (this season featuring sweet butternut squash). The tagliata di carne arrives as tender sliced prime rib-eye that barely needs seasoning. The branzino is baked in a wood-fired pizza oven with a splash of white wine, then deboned by Milic himself (he jokes, "Usually, everybody butchers the fish, but I do it sometimes with my eyes closed"), finished with sea salt, rosemary tucked inside, and olive oil. For the insalata Caprese he drizzles olive oil over plump tomatoes sourced from the Brentwood or Santa Monica farmers market and a mild mozzarella imported by Sogno Toscano from Italy, finished with basil and flaky sea salt. On the importance of ingredients he says, “There is something about combining burrata or mozzarella from Puglia, Italy — drizzling with olive oil, fresh basil, farmer’s market tomato. That sends the message. Sometimes you don’t need to talk because the product talks.” The beverage program emphasizes Italian wines, with bottles like a 2022 Marjan Simcic Pinot Grigio described as having notes of red apple and wild strawberry, and a 2021 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico that "features the elegant fragrance of red berries on the nose" and pairs well with the pastas. Early next year Milic will open a second-floor speakeasy and events space called Upstairs—designed by Milic with investment from five regulars—serving small plates and cocktails in a dimly lit lounge with a guest chef, Gianluca Roberti, helping to develop the food and drink menus. As longtime customer and investor Cliff Einstein observes, “You see neighborhood people there, and it has the warmth, the rarity of an owner actually being the chef and being there when you come. It’s like wandering into a little bistro or something in a village.” The restaurant’s hours are weekdays 12:00 p.m.–2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.–10:00 p.m., and Saturday–Sunday 5:30 p.m.–10:00 p.m." - Olivia Bria
