Crusco

Asheville’s Crusco Carries the Legacy of the Late Cucina 24 | Eater Carolinas

"Opened in late summer in Asheville’s River Arts District at 348 Depot Street, this deeply personal restaurant from co-owners Kat Kearney, chefs Lauren Macellaro and Alex Harris, and beverage director Allen Clark—alumni of the late Brian Canipelli’s Cucina 24—honors its roots while finding its own voice. Named for peperoni cruschi, the place feels neighborhood-y, relaxed, and welcoming, with a concise menu that isn’t trying to be strictly Italian but is grounded in seasonal, locally sourced ingredients and careful, precise cooking. Two standouts that even wowed my Italian fiancé, as he scraped up every last drop of sauce, were the rolled ravioli with squash and pistachio and a spaghetti that transported us back to Forte dei Marmi—a perfect bowl of spaghetti alle vongole, but with NC clams, chilies, and “too much parsley.” Kearney notes that spaghetti with clams is especially dear from travels with Brian, and the menu reflects that sentimentality alongside freshness over manipulation: tomatoes with eggplant, lime, peanut, and garum showcase produce from Asheville farmer Evan Chender; yellowtail with fennel two ways is a popular start; and mains read like grilled fish with peppers, eggplant, and crispy potato chips or a juicy poached chicken breast with romanos, almond, and garlic chips. Her current favorites are the shrimp toast and the ravioli, with the promise that the lineup will evolve with what’s available. Drinks skew tight and bright: the Vernaccia di San Gimignano (hints of fennel and licorice) is an ideal pairing, there are classic cocktails with modern tweaks like a Midtown Manhattan (rye, vermouth, amaro, herbal liqueur), and nightcaps may lean local with Eda Rhyne’s Amaro Oscura or Appalachian Fernet. I teared up chatting with a server who pointed out Contrada’s hand-gesture artwork on the dining room wall—drawn by Danny Reed of Hot Stuff Tattoo, who also created the logo—small but potent reminders of where this team comes from. The spirit here is empathetic and hands-on, with a clear emphasis on transparency, respect for staff, and a supportive culture that translates into hospitality that feels personal, not scripted." - Jenn Rice