Chang Lai

Chang Lai Rice Roll Cart Opens a Restaurant in Chinatown | Eater NY

"What began almost eight years ago as a food cart on the northeast corner of Bowery and Grand Street specialized in cheung fun (rice rolls) topped with curry fish balls — Cantonese street-food staples. I learned the cart was run by Lai Sheng Zhang (also known as Leo), an immigrant from Guangdong who initially worked as a taxi driver, and that it evolved into a counter-seat restaurant, Chang Lai Fishballs Noodles, now located at 55B Bayard Street at Elizabeth Street in Chinatown (the cart has ceased operations). Zhang and his wife Li Qing Wu (Natalie) commute from Woodhaven, Queens and decided to open a restaurant after the cart became too stressful, weather-dependent, and less pleasant for customers. On a recent visit I found regular morning customers and newer fans who had discovered the green-and-white umbrella–topped cart on social media; the new space offers a couple of counter stools so people can sit and chat with the owners. The place continues to sell the stubby, chewy, unstuffed rice-roll style (likened to Korean rice cakes) as well as thinner folded rice rolls, and the signature loaded plastic containers of rice rolls with curry fish balls — ask for it smothered in everything (a creamy mix of soy sauce, hoisin, sesame, peanut sauce, and sriracha); small is $5.75 and large $9.25. The menu also lists pork skin with radish over rice noodles, fish balls with oyster sauce and rice noodles, beef tripe and spleen with radish over rice noodles, congee with pork and preserved egg ($3.25–$6), curry fish balls (10 for $4.25), fried pork dumplings ($6.25), tea eggs (three for $2.50), French fries ($3.75), and drinks including Hong Kong–style milk tea and kumquat-lemon juice (with an option to add boba). Chang Lai Fishballs Noodles is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m." - Emma Orlow