Marugame Monzo Review: Little Tokyo Staple Produces Fresh Udon | Eater LA

"Since 2013, this Little Tokyo staple has perfected thick, bouncy Sanuki-style udon made fresh in an open kitchen, evolving from a fallback for Daikokuya stragglers into a destination for unique fusion bowls and impossibly crisp tempura. I come for the miso carbonara udon that put the place on the map—the chewiness of the noodles against fatty ham in a rich, savory cheese-and-egg sauce kissed with miso is a mind-boggling cross-cultural experience worth seeking out. The mixed tempura arrives with shrimp, eggplant, shiitake mushroom, kabocha squash, and shiso leaves and has a shatteringly light exterior, while the karaage offers juicy dredged chicken thigh bites served with curry salt and mayonnaise. The classics are strong, too: warm, comforting beef udon and cold, tangy plum shiso udon, the latter especially light and refreshing on hot days. If you’re dining solo or as a pair, grab a bar seat for a front-row view of noodles being stretched, cut, and boiled—dinner and a show—and customize any bowl with toppings like green onions, umeboshi paste, soft-boiled eggs, chile paste, tofu, and assorted tempura." - Kat Thompson