"A North London derby to put the Arsenal-Tottenham rivalry to shame is brewing. In the rosso corner, the newly arrived Santa Maria: the latest branch of a critically acclaimed mini-chain with a savvy social media presence and some truly excellent meatballs. In the bianco corner, Zia Lucia, the original branch of a critically acclaimed mini-chain with a brand personality that feels like every cliché about the Italian temperament all rolled into one. In a move that may appal carbohydrate monogamists, Zia Lucia has also changed its format recently to incorporate its pasta concept Berto next door, making an already busy menu (four different doughs to choose from!) even more of a Rubik’s cube; it might be easier to pick a favourite if the core offering wasn’t so damn good and genuinely affordable in both venues. Perhaps it’s best just to call it a win-win for all involved. [Editor’s note: North London is red.]" - George Reynolds
