
15
"A casual Chinese American homage from Bryant Ng and Kim Luu-Ng, this cheerful corner spot next to a large hospital loosely models itself after Panda Express with Ng’s take on orange chicken pocked with mango, plus a counter lineup of easygoing Asian diasporic dishes built to pair with rice and noodles. Step up to survey the day’s options and expect something more wholesome, flavorful, and frankly more interesting than a bigger fast-casual chain; a bowl with one entree, two bases, and two sides starts at $12.90 (at the time of publication). Of the mains, the Sichuan fried chicken is more compelling than the mango orange chicken—both are winners—but the former stands out for its crisp exterior and Chongqing-style dry chile seasoning. Skip the curry mashed potatoes and balance the fried items with the chopped kale salad; pickled Chinese cabbage is another piquant side that brightens the plate. Splurge on the melt-in-your-mouth Canto steamed salmon, bathed in a puckery soy-tinted broth, and finish with the Almond Roca-inspired chocolate chip cookie studded with melty chocolate chunks and salt flakes. The room has large windows, colorful Asian murals, a neon LED rabbit mascot, and original brick walls, and hospital and office workers fill the space right at noon. For parking, there’s a tiny but super helpful lot behind the building (arrive early for a spot); otherwise, be ready to walk a few blocks or try the metered spaces south on 23rd Street." - Matthew Kang