"I wrote recently about the fresh fish at Hibi in Koreatown but here’s the longer take on the rest of the dining experience. Hibi could be one of the most underrated places to try inventive cuisine in LA right now. The unassuming, strip mall exterior gives way to a dimly lit but artful space where chef Daniel Kim serves Asian-inflected food on stunning ceramic plates. The meal starts with thoughtful crudo, topped with intricately cut garnishes. Binchotan-grilled maitake gets a dusting of fermented mushroom powder over dashi sabayon, while baby ribs boast Korean barbecue spices over a Japanese barbecue sauce. Kim’s tenure with Michelin-starred restaurant Restaurant at Meadowood shows his creative elegance, though as a first-time restaurateur, the seasoning on a few dishes could be tighter. Still, the ambition and fantastic ingredient quality show plenty of promise, and I’ll be sure to return soon. — Matthew Kang, lead editor" - Eater Staff
