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"In Houston, at the modern Asian American diner Agnes and Sherman, chef Nick Wong uses rice cakes as a comforting, saucy starch in a ragu dish that nods to his years at Ssäm Bar; his rendition swaps proteins and flavor influences to suit the city—featuring a sauce with gochujang, doenjang, West African uda pepper, and Mexican chile de árbol—so that the dish reads as distinctly Houstonian." - Bettina Makalintal