"A Michelin star may have come and gone at this discreet Chelsea stalwart, but the food has barely changed in the decade since it opened. For the avoidance of doubt, this not necessarily a bad thing: the duck egg tart to start remains a perfect dish; Belted Galloway rump with triple-cooked chips and béarnise will never not hit a certain kind of diner’s pleasure centre. Where things definitely have evolved is on the wine front: head sommelier Melania Battiston has worked wonders on a list that used to be as awash in claret as some of the more bibulous regulars, and these days, Australia and Northern America are just as prominent as some real heavy hitters from Northern Italy and the Rhone. Sub-£50 bottles see decent representation and there is even more than a passing nod to natural wine hotbeds like Jura and the Loire. Perhaps most importantly, the staggeringly reasonable corkage charge remains in place, ensuring that most of the most impressive bottles drunk at Medlar may not even come from its own cellar." - George Reynolds