One White Street

Tribeca Restaurant One White Street Hammers Out Classic Luxuries | Eater NY

"Opened earlier this summer by two Eleven Madison Park alums, I dropped by One White Street for the $148 upstairs tasting and found a Tribeca townhouse doing farm-to-table American cooking that aims to please rather than surprise. Downstairs is a casual ground-level cafe (you can walk in any day) serving seasonal fare like scallop skewers with pesto, while the small third-floor dining room or granite counter upstairs requires booking about a month out; dinner for two will almost certainly top $450 after drinks, tax, and tip. The tasting leans into classic indulgences — a mornay-filled gougère topped with kaluga caviar, a tart foie gras terrine layered with apples and crispy shallots served with a Parker House roll, a binchotan charcoal-grilled halibut in mushroom-bonito broth with truffles and maitakes, and a generous five-slice roast duck over crispy barley with carrot reduction — plus meat-free options. Some courses (the foie gras, for example) feel like familiar, luxurious pleasures that could also be had downstairs in slightly different portions, and the halibut and truffle notes were tasty and hearty if not wildly novel. Desserts by Ileene Cho are more playful: a tomatillo–green apple sorbet that reads like a frozen salsa and a striking pavlova shaped into petals and filled with concord grape–lychee sorbet finished with lemon balm. With Audrey Frick’s thoughtful beverage list, this is a solid choice if you want a comfortably luxurious, well-executed tasting menu; if you’re after something more experimental, some of Brooklyn’s sub-$100 tastings may be a better bet." - Ryan Sutton