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"In Panaji’s Latin Quarter I found an 86-square-foot taverna that Fernandes revived in 2016 to spark a wider taverna comeback: he leaned into peeling paint and exposed walls, outfitting the space with old mirrors, porcelain plates, vintage clocks, and large garrafões to recreate the bar’s glory days. The bar—originally opened by Joseph Pereira in the 1970s—seats just 28 and spills into the street, and it’s famous for choris (Goan sausages) and a short menu of homestyle dishes like cafreal, liver fry, assado, and vindalho. Barman Gundu is a draw himself, handing out roses and coaxing people into feni-based house drinks like the signature Tambde Rosa, which incorporates kokum." - Joanna Lobo