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"I found Chef Kiminobu Saito’s steady approach to nigiri to walk the line between classic Edo-style and the more decadent omakase familiar to Angelenos; though his longtime apprentice Earl Aguilar serves at a subterranean counter in Beverly Hills, here in Sherman Oaks Saito holds court with two other sushi chefs preparing one of the Valley’s best sushi menus. The latter half of a recent omakase featured a stellar shiro ebi—baby Japanese shrimp topped with salty pops of caviar—whose creamy shellfish was further amplified by wine director Ian Lokey’s pairing with Vilmart Champagne, offering glazed pear notes and an eager effervescence; who knew sushi could feel so much like jazz?" - Eater Staff