"If burning through an expense account is the objective, the Beatrice Inn is more than happy to oblige. The meat-focused restaurant in a former nightclub is dripping with old glamour, from its zebra painting and leather trim to the excess-forward menu. Chef-owner Angie Mar piles an impossible amount of raw seafood on the market-price Grand Coquillage platter, and $120 roast duck is flambéed and served with cherry jus." - Paul Schrodt