Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: March 11 - Eater LA
"The scene at Cipriani will always resemble a billionaire’s yacht, an aspirational restaurant with enough fur coats and Hermés Birkin bags to make a person of middle-class standing blush. Glamorous wood panels, faux portholes displaying televised ocean waves, and white tuxedoed servers complete the ritzy experience. The cuisine, inspired by a hundred years of history from Venice’s Harry’s Bar, could be the least challenging Italian food in the Golden Triangle, an area rife with wealth and conservative palates. It’s no fault of Cipriani’s for giving the 90210 folks what they want. Everyone will start with a peach Bellini and $36 carpaccio with maybe three ounces of fresh flattened beef. But it’s hard to fault a great veal Milanese, served in a vinyl record size with the bone in for extra effect, not that anyone here would dare gnaw on the piece inside this restaurant. Crisp on the outside and sporting a sturdy, moist bite inside, it’s genuinely a wonderful thing to share, especially with a bowl of tagliatelle alla ragú and a tossed arugula and cherry tomato salad. Finish with the more-meringue-than-cake slice and you will leave poorer but happier." - Eater Staff
