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"Elite fishmonger / restaurant The Sea, The Sea has doubled up in Haggerston, and its cinematic dining counter offers cooking to match, devised by Leandro Carreira. Carreira’s trajectory — from the interesting, but ultimately flawed Londrino in Bermondsey, through to this counter and its counterpart on Pavilion Road — is upward, and his most exciting flourishes, from a lobster rice sandu to peerless ice cream making, are all present here." - Daisy Meager