"Chef DJ Flores’s Mexican food doesn’t start with his tinga-marinated cauliflower or earthy, braised barbacoa — it begins with his approach to masa itself. Flores regards his tortilla-making with equal parts art and science — sourcing red, yellow, and blue dried corn from small farmers in Mexico, then boiling, milling, forming, pressing, and cooking the tortillas right in the restaurant’s kitchen, where the warm and delicately flavored tortillas find their way into chicken adobo tacos, triangle-shaped tetelas filled with spiced squash and mushrooms, and fried until crisp for chilaquiles. It’s all served in his casual restaurant, just right for dining in with a michelada or paloma — or ordering to go." - Janna Karel