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"A thing to know about me: I love using my hands to dig into food and embrace the mess, which made the lobster ($95) at this impossible-to-book Cambodian restaurant perfect for a solo bar meal after a friend graciously offered me her reservation. I cracked and pulled the flavorful, chewy meat from the shell to mix with rice; the recipe comes from chef Chakriya Un’s mother, Mama Kim. On my server’s recommendation, I added the n’gom ($20), a beautiful mess of cabbage, peppers, cucumbers, radishes, fried peanuts, and crispy shallots soaked in a vinegary fish sauce condiment, plus light wine and a magical Paris-Brest with corn and peaches ($16). The vibes were impeccable — I bopped to early-aughts Beyoncé and Destiny’s Child — and even the blacklight-lit muraled bathroom charmed me; I can’t wait to return for more food, especially that squid." - Nat Belkov