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"Housed in a former drug store on California Street and praised by the Michelin Guide, this low-lit corner restaurant is one of the least braggy, most-focused spots in San Francisco. It’s a la carte, and I’d focus on the starters: the Japanese sweet potato is one of my favorite dishes of the year, its miso tahini an umami bomb with a toothsome peanut salsa macha and mint leaves, untreated, that sing through the textures and flavors. That love for smaller plates isn’t a knock on the mains—the simple, well-executed, seasonal menu makes them easy picks, with a few staples like the white Bolognese handkerchief pasta; for now, try the glazed pork belly atop a creamy parsnip puree. The beverage program is dialed in, and the central bar is a big draw, pouring old-world hitters and new-school natty wines; for teetotalers, the St. Agrestis Phony Negroni is a fruitier take and one of the city’s better iterations. Step in from the nippy west side weather and it feels like the belly of a storybook sailboat, with a cadre of hip, friendly servers buzzing around and plenty of outdoor seating; it’s the Outer Richmond’s go-to, so you won’t get a primetime walk-in—make a reservation." - Paolo Bicchieri