The Most Interesting Places to Drink Wine In London

"Bright opened in 2018. In the last 18 months, it has been so many things — bottle shop, traiteur, al fresco terrazza, hypebeast squid sando maven — that it is easy to forget that for the year and half before that it was quietly ploughing its own furrow as one of London’s most low-key clever and high-key delicious restaurants. Headed up by Will Gleave, the kitchen is not without an eye for the theatrical, especially when it comes to frying things (for that pre-pandemic lasagna fritta, see this summer’s courgette and anchovy number) but below the gorgeous surface has undeniably robust fundamentals. For all the eyecatching Gabrio Binis decorating the shelves, the list is likewise a case study in strength in depth, as well as a rebuke to anyone claiming natural wine is always overpriced." - George Reynolds