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"An intimate, 10-seat, seafood-driven tasting counter in Melrose Hill, this permanent home for chef Brian Baik’s pop-up delivers an 11-course menu that channels his Japanese and French training alongside his Korean American roots. Expect seasonal compositions like aji toast with horse mackerel on homemade milk bread, an ikura tartlet, skipjack tuna with pesto spaghetti, and channel rockfish in a fish bone broth. A single 7 p.m. seating allows Baik and his team to greet each guest and cook every course right at the counter—there’s no separate kitchen—beneath an overhead light that spotlights the plating. The $325 experience (offered at $295 through November 15 for the opening) can be paired with Master Sommelier Michael Engelmann’s wine program focused on small, family-owned estates, with sake also available, and entry flows through Bar 109 before you’re whisked through a tall door to the counter." - Rebecca Roland