Matsunoki Ramen: Buzzy Artisan Bowls of Tonkotsu Hit Mississippi Avenue | Eater Portland
"Expanded from a Pine Street Market stall into its first standalone Mississippi Avenue space at the corner of Mississippi and Fremont (the former XO Bar), the new shop represents more than growth—it's described as a kind of homecoming for co-owner Jeff Extine, who cut his teeth just down the street at Por Que No. The owners — Extine, Grant Macdonald, and Joey Freedman — bring collective experience with Portland standouts like Japanese-based ramen chain Afuri, Bollywood Theater, and Marukin (now Kinboshi), with Macdonald having spent years overseeing Afuri’s considerable growth in the Portland Metro. Macdonald essentially defines the ethos thusly: "We make delicious ramen, and we make it with an understanding of Japanese sensibility, but with a target audience of Americans. The way I think of it... in Japan, it’s like, noodles first, broth second, toppings are an afterthought. Here, it’s the exact opposite order. People are looking for toppings." Extine adds a critique of undifferentiated topping choices: "What goes in ramen? Oh, seaweed, oh fishcake, oh, and then all of a sudden you just have this bowl and it’s the same as everyone else’s, and it’s just too crowded!" The interior evokes a jungle-green-against-rattan vibe: forest green walls that nod to the namesake pine tree, blonde wood tables and palm-colored chairs arranged in clean symmetry, tall front windows pulling in Mississippi Ave foot traffic, and pendant lights with bulbs wrapped in woven green orbs echoing rattan/wicker fixtures. The space includes a full bar and an all-new cocktail menu featuring spring-forward drinks such as the Cherry Blossom, made with salal berries and Freeland Spirits liqueur, and the Long Thaw, a floral riff on the white negroni. While tonkotsu-style ramen (its version also incorporates chicken broth) remains the bread-and-butter, the team emphasizes plant-based offerings: a full quarter of sales across the board are vegan options, a figure the team wears as a badge of honor and considers "a core concept ... instead of an afterthought." The downtown Pine Street Market location will continue operating, and the Mississippi shop is betting on increased space and visibility; during a recent visit passersby frequently slowed to a stop or altered their course to peek in and scan posted menus. Doors open Thursday, April 24, with free ramen for the first 50 people through the door." - Ron Scott
