"The area around Sam Yan Market – known today for catering to nearby university students – used to be famous for its seafood restaurants. These grandes dames of cuisine were often helmed by Thai Chinese cooks with a talent for melding fresh Thai ingredients with Chinese cooking methods such as steaming and stir-frying. Most of the big names have since moved on to more glamorous neighborhoods, but Nakorn Phochana remains, churning out the same stir-fried curried crab, tom yum (spicy lemongrass) soup, and langoustine tails that first charmed diners 50 years ago. Look out for the restaurant’s version of fried rice with Chinese olives, studded with fresh chilies, cashews, and slivers of lime." - Chawadee Nualkhair