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"A 275-year-old Chinatown public house recently restored by restaurateur siblings Zoë and Layo Paskin, the venue retains its 18th-century character while adding new small-scale hospitality spaces. The team excavated into the original beer cellar to create an intimate subterranean kitchen bar and added seating adjacent to the open kitchen; the ground floor continues to offer pub snacks and drinks, while a first-floor Mulwray bar serves cocktails. The refurbishment is presented as a carefully considered restoration intended to create welcoming spaces the operators themselves would enjoy visiting." - Adam Coghlan