"It’s only a matter of time before the pasta boyfriends of the internet discover sugo finto, or fake sauce. The easiest way to add a semblance of mystery and romance to a familiar dish? Call it by another name. In this case, it’s the most ubiquitous of pasta accompaniments: sugo finto is essentially a tomato sauce, served in place of a meat ragu. Few could be so brazen. Only Rossodisera, which specialises in the cuisine of Italy’s Le Marche region, has dared. Spaghetti co’ lo sugo finto comes al dente, with a single basil leaf perched on top, but on a menu that includes a £2.50 supplement to get olive oil alongside the bread basket, it’s hardly the most audacious thing. There’s another branch in Covent Garden." - Hester van Hensbergen