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"What began at farmers markets and as a food truck has evolved into a cozy, full-service Cambodian-Vietnamese restaurant beside the train tracks in White River Junction. Run by Sarin Tin and Lay Yi, the menu highlights a crispy fried-bread appetizer topped with an umami-rich pork-and-shrimp spread meant for dipping in a sweet-spicy-sour sauce; sandwich options include a classic Vietnamese banh mi with ham, head cheese, and pâté or a signature sandwich offered with proteins like lemongrass beef or ginger-garlic pork. For cold days, the mi kary — an enormous curry-noodle bowl with shrimp, tofu, yellow noodles, vegetables, and crispy wontons — is especially comforting. The sit-down location offers an expanded menu and a small beer-and-wine selection and is open for lunch and dinner six days a week." - Rachel Leah Blumenthal