"Alex Raij and Eder Montero, of Manhattan’s Txikito and next-door La Vara have created both a charming neighborhood restaurant and an excellent fish and wine destination. Start with snacks like the head-on shrimp and the whipped mackerel. Move on to the chilled octopus or amberjack. Share a cod pot pie on a cool spring night or order for the table the jerk hamachi collar or squid a la plancha. If there are specials like barnacles, don’t pass them up. Good to know: Every night from 5 to 6 p.m. it’s Violet Hour, with a $45 three-course menu." - Emma Orlow