"FM Mangal is almost certainly the best London ocakbaşi south of the Thames, which, for Turkish restaurants, is like winning the Europa League. Where it equals and surpasses its Green Lanes and Edmonton cousins is in its wraps, which are put together with care and precision. First, the bread is given ample time to get to know the meat; they are introduced on the grill so it is infused with both fat from the meat, and the smoke as that same fat drips and ignites on the coals. Then the bread is brushed with brick-red biber paste in broad brushstrokes like a Matisse, and the wrap is constructed: salad, pickles, chilli, garlic sauce, and a kebab of choice. All are great, but the adana, so dense it could spring a bed, is the one." - Jonathan Nunn
