
5

"I visited the renovated 4,500-square-foot Fifth Avenue space in Hillcrest now operating as Cocina de Barrio, which has been transformed into a more upscale, open-seating restaurant centered on a bougainvillea tree and a mural inspired by Rufino Tamayo’s 'Dualidad.' Executive chef/partner Jose Flores (Civico 1845, Solare) spearheaded the refresh, and the restaurant now offers daily lunch and dinner with a menu of regional Mexican cuisine that mainly spotlights Oaxacan specialties: a traditional seafood soup heated with hot river rocks; at least three variations of mole; tlayudas topped with queso Oaxaca; seafood crudo; grilled octopus; huitlacoche quesadillas; and braised lamb birria. Weekend brunch options range from chilaquiles and chorizo hash to blue corn pancakes and churro French toast, a weekday patio happy hour will feature a taco cart with hand-pressed tortillas, and the bar pours Baja craft beer on tap, wine from the Valle de Guadalupe, and a broad range of mezcal and tequila served as creative cocktails or tasting flights." - Candice Woo