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"Once an overlooked wine shop that became a celebrated restaurant of the year, this venue’s rise is tightly bound up with a social-media-fueled story: early, curiosity-baiting Instagram shots highlighted William Gleave’s enchantingly gorgeous presentations, then Tim Spedding briefly ran the room before a foodie-set viral moment in 2016–17. With Gleave back in charge at a new site, expectations are for immediate, large-scale success; whether that will change its distinctive, magic-in-a-bottle, Gravner-esque wine vibe is an open question that will likely be answered over time — and across lots of ‘grams." - George Reynolds