"Skye Gyngell’s £25 “scratch” deal — three plates created entirely from scraps and offcuts — has had a lot of press, and deservedly so: none of the a la carte menu’s style or substance has been sacrificed in the name of the no-waste concept. Par for the course are dishes like pasta “rags” with a sauce of blemished tomatoes and parsley stems; or a plate of grilled squid with accoutrements made from odds and ends. It’s only available from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., but it’s worth the faff. There’s also a two-course set for £29 at lunchtime, to which diners can add a grand aioli for £15 if in the mood for largesse." - Emma Hughes