4 Restaurants to Try This Weekend in Los Angeles: July 11 | Eater LA
"A daytime extravaganza by Giles Clark (Den Tokyo, St. John London) — who came stateside with mentor Junya Yamasaki (who helms Yess next door) — occupies a unique industrial space featuring a wraparound mezzanine, skylights, and brick walls variously described as both Brutalist and Victorian (the grandma-style furniture evokes the latter). The food reads as modern British with Jamie Oliver energy but leans toward the niceness of Fergus Henderson: the country terrine is described as spectacular, studded with pistachios and cracked black pepper and wrapped so tightly that a slice of chopped pork becomes a lovely thing to behold. A cocktail-sized chilled borscht is a delightful summer soup; huckleberry jam and yogurt underneath smoked salmon on a crispy potato hash work despite the contrasts of sweet, creamy, and salty; the pork katsu sando forfeits a crispy exterior but gains juiciness; and merguez sausage with crispy, twig-like fries arrives with dense aioli and harissa as a nod to a Marseilles street food, though Clark often skips the bread and lets the finger-ready bites sit on a plate. The room was buzzing on a Thursday with every table full, and the reviewer describes the project as the kind of place that defies immediate understanding — an attribute the writer rather enjoys in an age of predictability. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest" - Eater Staff
