"As you reach the final narrow neck of land in Napeague, Long Island that leads to Montauk, two generic places loom on the horizon, the first hawking lobster rolls, the next hoisting a sign that simply reads, Clam Bar. The fried clams are great, but even better are the steamed siphon clams served with drawn butter, a participatory meal that can leave an entire carload of sojourners delighted." - Robert Sietsema