"This essential Thai eatery out in McLean, Va. has two spring specials starring fresh (never frozen) shipments of soft shell crab. A fried main comes with chili and basil sauce ($20) or opt for a pair of fried or grilled softies with Esaan’s special sauce ($40). Dine-in or order online. The crabs started arriving in early April and frequently sell out." - Tierney Plumb