Lao Der’s Chicken Soup Is My New Cold-Day Craving | Eater Chicago

"Chicago’s only sit-down Lao restaurant delivers a concise, home-style menu that balances comfort with bold, spice-friendly flavors; since opening in Irving Park in 2025, it’s become a welcoming entry point to a corner of Southeast Asia rarely represented in the city. Khao piek sen — Lao chicken noodle soup — has become my new cold-day craving: chewy, handmade rice noodles swim in a rich, satisfying chicken broth with springy chicken meatballs and tender poached chicken, and ground ginger in lime sauce plus chile oil on the side let me dial up the heat. Tum luangphabrang is a punchy papaya salad bursting with savory, sweet, spicy, and sour notes, with thin ribbons of papaya tossed with tomatoes, lime, sugar, anchovy, and crab paste and an adjustable spice level. Beef larb, often seen at Northern Thai spots, stands out here thanks to pickled fish sauce that gives the minced-meat salad a distinctly pungent profile, and it comes with sticky rice. It’s best for anyone who enjoys a soothing meal with assertive flavors, and there are always specials worth asking about — on my visits I encountered Lao beef jerky and a pumpkin custard dessert — while many Lao dishes share similarities with Northeastern Thai cuisine, so items like Isan sausages will feel familiar." - Jeffy Mai