"Mississippi-born Alkebulan Moroski is an artist of seitan at their vegan restaurant, Dirty Lettuce, transforming humble wheat gluten into Southern classics that are true to the textures and flavors of the originals. Look for light, crisp cornmeal-breaded catfish, charred, sticky barbecue ribs, and juicy, crackly fried chicken. Sides are no afterthought here, from gooey Cajun style mac ‘n’ cheese to stewed collard greens, complete with little bits of vegan meat for pops of flavor. Even the tartar sauce might be one of the best in town, vegan or not." - Katherine Chew Hamilton